Lower Pulleys

2lbpulley1.jpg (116451 bytes)

JDM 2 lb. pulley and installation jig.

 

 

2lbpulley2.jpg (72821 bytes)

JDM 2 lb. pulley vs. Stock pulley.  2 lb. is 1/2" larger.

 

 

24pulley1.jpg (85968 bytes)

JDM 2 lb. pulley & Johnny Lightning 4 lb. pulley.

 

 

24pulley2.jpg (114064 bytes)

The Johnny Lightning 4 lb. is about 1/2" larger than JDM 2 lb.

 

 

4lbpulleys1.jpg (75191 bytes)

JDM 4 lb. & Johnny Lightning 4 lb.

 

 

4lbpulleys2.jpg (125413 bytes)

The JDM 4 lb. is a hair larger. Part of the difference is a larger outside lip.

 

It seems the rule of thumb is a 1/2" larger for every 2 extra lbs. of boost.

Every 2 lbs. of boost dynos out to 6hp and 24 lb. feet of torque.

 

Boost Actuator Adjustment

 

boostact.jpg (23669 bytes)

The boost actuator is located on the driver's side of the intake close to the firewall.  There are (2) 10mm bolts that hold it in place. One you can see in the pic and the other is on the backside of the actuator closest to the firewall.  Pay attention to the slots location in reference to the bolts so you will know where you started.  Loosen bolts and raise the actuator up until you see the LEVER raise up off of the STOP.  Lower it back down until the LEVER just touches the STOP then tighten bolts.  Now, this is the way it was explained to me but I found that set this close the boost gauge would rise to almost "0" while cruising at 80.  I went back and readjusted so I could cruise at 80 with no needle movement unless I barely moved the throttle (and I mean barely).  This setting was probably halfway between the stock setting and the just touching setting.  The first thing I noticed was the needle jumped immediately to 10lbs and climbed from there.  Stock it jumped to 9.5lbs and climbed.  The total boost also increased by a 1/2lb to 1/4lb more.  I also ran a tick quicker with my fastest mph at the track.  The temps were warmer and there was less traction (it rained until the track opened).  I think this adjustment is worth a small amount of speed.  Besides, it's free.

 

 

Computer Service Port Cleaning For Performance Chip

 

Start by disconneting the cable on the negative terminal of the battery.  Remove computer by unscrewing 10mm bolt in center of wiring harness until wiring harness socket can be unplugged from the end of the computer.  This harness is on the passenger side firewall behind the battery.  Inside the truck above the passenger side kick panel is the computer held by a black plastic clip.  After removing harness and clip just slide the computer back and out.  Remove the six black screws holding the computer together then take the top and bottom plate off of the computer.  This makes it easy to get to the contacts for silicone coating removal and cleaning.  In the Pic below you can see how to use your fingernail to scrape off the thick later of silicone.  You start at the back side of the contact scrape outward to the end so your careful not to lift the contact.  You can also use a Q-Tip dipped in  rubbing alcohol to clean off residue.

 

 

When you have most of the silicone scraped off the contacts take a pencil eraser like the in the PIC below and rub the contacts from the inside out until you have them good and clean.

 

 

The contacts also have a lacquer coating on them from the factory to prevent corrosion.  If you purchased a Superchip it comes with a little strip of   green scotchbrite pad that acts like a mild sandpaper to scrub the lacquer off.   If you don't have this with your chip it is best to buy some and scrub the lacquer off because they may look like they're clean but will still have a thin coating which could cause you trouble down the road .  The Pic below shows the scotchbrite pad being used on each contact to clean them.

prep.jpg(36222 bytes)

 

 

You want to make sure you have the contacts good and clean so you won't have any intermitent problems later. I measured, in the Pic below, at each end of the contact with a meter to see if the contacts are clean enough to give a No Resistance reading .  Only light pressure is put on the leads so you know your not pushing through silicone.  Then reassemble the computer and reinstall.  This method should keep you from tearing up your contacts and get them nice and clean.  If  the small lip on your metal bracket that holds the back of the computer in place pushs on your chip it would wise to bend it out of the way. You might also want to put a   strip of  scotch tape across each end of the chip for extra security.

 

 

Front Brake Pad Replacement Instuctions

by Azeem Raja (aka) DreaminAboutL

Replacing the front brake pads is very easy to do:

      1. Raise L; secure w/jack stand; remove wheel
      2. Use T45 Torx bit to loosen caliper bolts - on back side of caliper
      3. Caliper hinges/slides off (red outline in pic)
      4. If caliper does not move, the pads may be stuck/fused to the caliper
      5. If so: use 18mm socket to remove bolts on caliper mounting bracket - the whole
          assembly should then come off.
      6. Remove / replace pads
      7. Compress pistons back into caliper - you need to prevent old fluid from backing
          into system - open bleeder screw, pinch brake hose, or bleed fluid first, etc.
      8. Replace caliper - this may take a little force
      9. Tighten all bolts
    10. Replace wheel - torque wheel properly!

caliper.jpg (55959 bytes)