NGK, Splitfire, Autolite and Champion
 

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 5plugs2.jpg (100697 bytes)

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#5 (first plug on drivers side) Champion 401 (RS12YC)

 

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NGK TR5 comparison

 

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NGK TR5 IX  Iridium

 

Sparkplug Details

I have tried all 6 of the plugs shown in the pics above. My favorite is still the Splitfire after all the testing that I have done.  The stock plug and Autolite have the flattest throttle response of all the plugs with the Autolites being the worst.  The Splitfire had the best throttle response but the NGK is not too far behind.  The TR6 ran one and a half miles per hour less trap speed at the track than the Splitfire.  I didn't think it was the plugs at first but when the Splitfires went back in the MPH came back.  I have never had a detonation problem until the #4 pulley and new winter gas formulation.  I put the TR5 plug in at the same time the gas changed and had some pinging.  I thought it was the plugs so I decided to try the Champion 401 (big mistake).  I could not hear any detonation with the Champions but less than 2 days after installation the # 5 plug was destroyed and luckily did not result in any engine damage.  I put Splitfires back in and there was detonation again.   I had my chip reburned for the sorry winter gas and kept my warm weather program on Side II of my flip chip.  I will retry the TR5 to see how it does.   So far so good with the TR5's (see pics above) but the track will the whole story. The TR5's gave me the same response and MPH at the track so they are keepers. I also had good luck with the TR5IX Iridium plugs. The only real benefit to the Iridium is a smoother idle for $57 vs. $14 for the regular TR5.

#1 Plug Removal Video Part 1

Move Mouse Pointer Over Videos To Play

 

#1 Plug Removal Video Part 2

 

Note:   The number of threads holding the plug in is shown by the compound missing on SF10D.  If you have any pinging or clatter at Wide Open Throttle DO NOT ignore it . Any plug will fail if detonation occurs continuously.  Get you chip reburned so that you don't damage your engine.

 

 

Sparkplug Replacement Tips and Tools

The first thing you need to know is where the release for the wire connector to the coil pack is.  It is on the bottom in the middle back next to the wires. You push up on it.

Tools needed are: 3/8" ratchet with (2) 6" extensions, (2) 3" extensions (1) 3/8" swivel and 5/8" sparkplug socket. 1/4" ratchet with (2) 2" extensions, (1) 4" extension and 7mm socket.  1/4" small breaker bar (I call it that) this tool will make life easy on the third 7mm bolt back on drivers side because a regulator sticks out off of the fuel rail making it a tight fit.  A telescopic magnet would help in removing and replacing 7mm bolts.

You do not have to take fuel rails or power steering tank brackets off to do this job.  Disconnect the wire to the coil pack then remove the 7mm bolt and twist coil back and forth. The coil should come right out with a long rubber boot on the end.   After you get it out wipe any dirt off with a rag so it won't fall back in the hole going back in.  If you have air blow any grit out of the hole before removing plug.

The 3/8" ratchet, (2) 6" extensions and socket do most of the plugs. The passenger side 4th plug takes a 3" extension in the plug socket to make it in the hole because of a metal hose.The back plugs on both sides are easier if you use a swivel above the 3" extension and long extensions to get out into the clear. Be careful starting the plugs with a swivel because of crossthreading.

On the drivers side the first plug takes all of your 1/4" drive extensions to be able to get to the 7mm bolt because of a bracket.  This bracket is also over the plug hole. Now just use your 3" extension on the plug socket and slip it in the hole from the front of the truck.  Then put put another 3" on it and take it out no problem. It helps to unplug the hard plastic hose from the rubber intake boot for more room.

The only other problem is the 7mm bolt on the 3rd plug back on the drivers side. It's too tight to even use a swivel above the socket.  This was after going to three stores to find one.  I had to finally crank it over at a 90 degree angle and use it like a breaker bar.  This is why I suggest you get one of those little breaker bars on the front end and you'll have no trouble. 

By knowing the tools you need on the front end and knowing when to use them this should be a 2 hour or less job.  It was a 5 hr. job for me between borrowing extensions twice, going on my shopping spree for a swivel and wrestling with that 7mm bolt.

Tips: Start your 7mm bolts and plugs by hand before putting a ratchet on then.  You don't want to crossthread that aluminum.

I hope this helps. It's a lot more info than I had.